[Food Review] Zoldering: A One Michelin-Starred Gem Resembling a Lively Neighborhood Bistrot with a Wine Bar Vibe
Having heard great things about Zoldering from the Michelin Guide Netherlands, I was eager to secure a table, although its popularity made it a challenging task. However, when I learned that a friend was visiting Amsterdam, Zoldering was the first place I attempted to reserve, and fortunately, we succeeded.
Despite its Michelin-starred status, Zoldering offers a menu that is surprisingly affordable, with most items priced under 30 Euros. The Michelin Guide description of Zoldering succinctly captures its essence:
"One chef and three wine enthusiasts share their joie de vivre in this lively neighborhood bistro, where you can savor a fine glass of wine (featuring one of the city's best selections) and enjoy uncomplicated cuisine (à la carte only)."
Nestled within a typical Dutch building in the city center, Zoldering manages to create a cozy atmosphere that avoids feeling cramped. Even their restroom is generously stocked with Aesop amenities and hand towels.
A substantial serving of bread accompanied our meal, a departure from the usual whipped butter found in Amsterdam's starred restaurants. The baguette-like bread, simple yet rich in flavor, was quite enjoyable.
We perused the extensive list of wines by the glass and made our selections: sparkling wine for me and white wine for my friend. As promised by the Michelin guide, we were able to relish our wine choices thoroughly.
For our appetizers, we opted for the Eggplant & Burrata tartelette and Stuffed Padrón Pepper, available for individual order. The tartelette featured pine nuts and a pistou sauce crafted from olive oil and basil. While I didn't taste it personally, my friend attested to its quality. The Padrón pepper, filled with chicken, dill, and pickle, hails from northeastern Spain and boasts a relatively mild flavor. Though the appearance of the fried pepper left something to be desired, its taste was decent.
After enjoying our second glasses of wine, we savored the steak tartare, accompanied by Jerusalem artichoke, shiitake mushroom, and smoked eel mayo. Although I've encountered Jerusalem artichoke before without much enthusiasm, this time, its texture harmonized well with the tartare. However, the shiitake left me less impressed. Honestly, the onion rings proved more distinctive and complemented the tartare; I felt they could emphasize the onion element more.
Next, we were served Cauliflower with black winter truffle and egg yolk. In Amsterdam, cauliflower appears frequently on menus, and at times, it can become tiresome. Yet, here, it paired excellently with black truffle, boasting a delightful fragrance that enhanced the overall dish without overwhelming it. The menu was skillfully orchestrated.
Following that, we indulged in Chicory and Celeriac with Walnut, Fourme de'Ambert, and Balsamic Vinegar. Although I didn't taste it myself, my friend found it quite satisfying, despite its somewhat messy appearance.
The highlight of my dining experience was the monkfish, impeccably cooked with green asparagus adding a delightful contrast to the firmer monkfish texture. The umami flavor was elevated by a broth infused with katsuobushi and kombu, making the dish a must-try. I relished not only the fish meat but also the fish liver.
Choosing dessert proved a bit challenging, and we settled on the daily special: Ice cream with amarena cherries. The restaurant also graciously provided madeleines. Unfortunately, as is often the case with daily specials in Amsterdam, this dessert fell short of expectations.
(Be sure to check out the video below for a one-minute video of Zoldering.)
In summary, I thoroughly enjoyed most of the dishes at Zoldering, with the exception of the dessert. While their presentation and cooking techniques may not be extraordinarily innovative, their cuisine is authentic and flavorful, with a refreshing lack of pretension—a quality I found quite appealing. Moreover, their reasonable prices left me feeling satisfied at the end of the meal.
Zoldering
Utrechtsestaat 141H, 1017 VM Amsterdam
+31 20 765 1212
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