[Food Review] Troef Amsterdam: A new hotspot in Amsterdam-Oost, serving French food with a hint of Italian influence.
Just like the China Sichuan Restaurant I posted last time, I found Troef Amsterdam on the same list - Time Out's "The 21 Best Restaurants in Amsterdam 2024" list. After my experience with China Sichuan restaurant, I honestly had some doubt. However, the description of this place was quite fancy, and since it was not far from my area, I decided to go.
Troef Amsterdam brought together big names from Amsterdam's culinary scene, including renowned restaurants like 212 and Ron Blaauw, as well as the expertise of chefs such as Raymond Plat (formerly of 212) and Niels Leijssenaar (from the kitchens of Ron Blaauw), along with Willem Alberts and Roderick Kunst from Escobar. Nestled in Amsterdam-Oost, Restaurant Troef swiftly rose to prominence as one of the most sought-after hotspots in this vibrant part of the city.
We initially decided to order a combination of one starter + entree, and one starter + main, as the portions looked decent, but the wait staff recommended us to order one more main, but at the end we had a bit more of food than we can digest for the day.
Out of the three starters available that day, we ordered two smoked options. One was the Smoked Beef Loin with oyster cream and pickles from Kesbeke and seaweed, and the other was the Smoked Dutch Eel with crispy potato, horseradish, and herb salad.
The starters were indeed quite decent. Surprisingly, my favorite of the day was the smoked eel, delicately placed atop the crispy potato, resembling an uncooked small instant noodle. The combination of smoky flavor and savory elements made the dish outstanding.
Then we moved on to the Langoustine. It was served with a savory and rich sauce made from verveine and lardo di colonatta, with a generous portion of garden peas at the bottom. I've had langoustines at other Michelin-starred restaurants in the Netherlands, such as Coulisse, De Moerbei, Rijks, and Lars, but it's an ingredient that typically doesn't disappoint. So, I considered it a safe choice.
However, what stood out in this dish was the garden peas. The sweet peas were cooked perfectly, providing a delightful texture and complementing the sauce exceptionally well. However, the langoustine itself lacked convincing flavor. The first thing my friend and I noticed about the langoustine was its lack of taste. What we mean is that we couldn't discern any distinct flavor on our taste buds. Later on, after finishing the garden peas, we could detect a bit more flavor in the last piece as the sauce had penetrated the langoustine slightly more, and there was a subtle sweetness to it, but overall, the langoustine fell short in terms of flavor.
Our initial choice for the main course was the Tournedos Rossini, featuring black truffle, Madeira Sauce, and sweet-sour shallots. This renowned French steak, consisting of a beef tournedos served on a crouton with foie gras on top, was accompanied by truffle with Madeira sauce. I believe it was prepared in the right way.
However, the issue arose with the Ravioli, which we added upon recommendation from the wait staff. The Ravioli, featuring Pied-de-mouton and Trompette de la mort mushrooms, star anise, and lovage, was too salty for my taste, resulting in a cut on the roof of my mouth. Consequently, I only managed to have one ravioli in the end.
What we really enjoyed were the fried potatoes. There were two sides offered: fried potatoes and a lettuce salad with Dutch Farmer's cheese. Both looked appealing as we dined at the bar. Although we didn't have the salad, the one with calamansi sauce and an abundance of cheese looked more than enticing. Our fries were exceptional too. Slightly thicker than the usual fries found in the Netherlands, they were perfectly fried, made from fresh potatoes, and seasoned with salt and long pepper.
As I had a cut on my palate, we opted for something cold for dessert. Interestingly, most of the desserts they offered were ice creams, so we chose Pistachio. The €10 ice cream was served in a generous portion, and we could sense that it was made with a significant amount of pistachio, evident even from its color. However, we were unsure if it was a well-made ice cream, and we had some doubts about whether the combination of pistachio and honey was the best choice. For the entire dining experience and to see how the open kitchen works, please check the YouTube video below.
Troef was an interesting place. I enjoyed its inviting ambiance with Scandinavian influences and loved their starters. It seemed like a good place for oenophiles; however, I felt that it became weaker when it came to the main courses and desserts. I think next time I'll visit for a simple wine and bites menu rather than a full meal.
TROEF
Schollenbrugstraat 8, 1091 EX Amsterdam
+31 06 29827120
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